Go Light, Go Fast by CAMP

NEW 2013 GEAR IS AVAILABLE!

It's our favorite time of year, when we get to finally deliver the new gear R&D has been slaving over. New products include updates to the historic Tricams including the all-new Tricam Evo with 3 placement possibilities, three new styles of locking carabiners, the already popular Supernova women's harness, a complete overhaul on chalk bags including the first-ever chalk bag specifically designed for alpine conditions, and new packs for ultralight mountain running and fastpacking.

Check out all the New Products HERE NOW!

SKIING THE SIERRA

We just received this final update from CAMP USA athlete Justin Licther about his ski trip through the high Sierra.

Read part 1 & part 2

I got back home last night after completing the Sierra Ski Trip. All in all, despite the lack of snow this year, this was a great trip and really good experience to get my gear and systems dialed. In two weeks and well over 250 miles skiing, there was a mixed bag of conditions and terrain to try everything out on. This ranged from walking across dirt patches with our skis on, to hiking in our ski boots, scrambling through house-sized talus with some class 4 and low class 5 moves in ski boots, to actually skiing. 

During the past week, the conditions improved greatly for skiing since the majority of the time was spent over 8000 feet elevation. Up high in the lakes basins and heading up to the high passes the conditions were optimal. The skiing was fantastic and the lakes were still frozen, which made for direct lines, good glide, and little side-hilling, not to mention fun, slightly out-of-control downhills. By the last week, my body was feeling good and used to the motions, so an average of about 20 miles per day was not out of the question, including a few 30 mile days. At the beginning of the trip, we were hard pressed to get 15 miles in a day. In the last week, basically following the Pacific Crest Trail/John Muir Trail corridor through the High Sierras, I went over 8 high passes, covered about 130 miles, and broke another camera. I am not sure how but right after the last town stop in Mammoth the camera lens stopped working.

Bummer, but that is the life of a long distance hiker. This is probably the fourth or fifth camera that I have had break in the backcountry. Other than the camera breaking, a few big blisters, and a couple of painful bruises on my achilles from the ski boots, the trip was fun and the scenery was amazing. It was great to see the Sierra extra early in the season and fully "Nevada" (Nevada means snowy in Spanish).

A few days ago I even saw bear tracks at 8500 feet elevation. The terrain was completely snow covered still, so I was very surprised to see this so early in the season. I still am wondering what the bear was doing up there since there obviously wasn’t much food yet.

I think that’s all for now. Time to go relax and get some Ben and Jerry’s.

Scott Bennett & Brad Gobright Send Huge Zion Day

CAMP USA Athlete Scott Bennett and partner Brad Gobright have completed a huge linkup in Zion National Park, combining Sheer Lunacy, Monkey Finger, Moonlight Buttress, and Shune's Buttress in 19 hours.

Bennett and Gobright's day follows Nik Berry and Mason Earle's 2012 linkup, which did not include Shune's Buttress, and a March 2013 linkup of Moonlight, Sheer Lunacy, Touchstone Wall, and Spaceshot by Honnold & Caldwell. Bennett and Gobright's start time was limited by the NPS shuttle schedule, so the pair didn't begin hiking toward theie first climb until 7:30AM, and they returned from Shune's Buttress (their final route, climbed entirely by headlamp) at 2:50AM.

Bennett says "The CAMP Ovo belay device was the MVP, since we did so much belaying on Brad's 80m 9.8mm. I'm sure my shoulder would've fallen off belaying with an ATC after so much pitches."

Their rack for the endurance splitters typical of Zion was remarkably small, just a double set of cams to a .75 camalot, a single #1, #2, #3, and an extra .5 camalot for Moonlight Buttress.

They nearly called it a day after climbing the first 3 walls, but fired up a jetboil for some impromptu espresso at midnight, and then headed off to Shune's Buttress, fully-caffeinated. 

"We each took a fall on Sheer, and also on Monkeyfinger", laments Bennett.  "I fell on Sheer because of a broken handhold, and on Monkeyfinger because of pure exhaustion."

CLIMBERS ON A PLANE

One of the greatest things about being a climber or skier is the opportunity to see beautiful new places while doing what you love. Climbing trips keep us motivated to train hard, inspired to learn new skills, and grateful for the variety of peaks and crags that each offer something different. 

But flying anywhere with your climbing gear can be an enormous pain.

Jesse Mattner is the man in charge of CAMP USA, but between working 70-hour weeks in our Colorado office, Jesse is always ready for the next climb. He recently snuck out of work for a couple days and caught a Spirit Airlines "discount" flight from Denver to Las Vegas. The plan was a quick ascent of The Rainbow Wall in Red Rock. And apart from the extreme weather advisory and intermittent snow squalls, there was only one hitch in the plan. 

The $100 carry-on.

That's right, Spirit Airlines charges between $35-$50 each way even for a carry-on bag, as long as it is reserved in advanced. But if you assume that it's free to carry on a small bag, and arrive at the gate without reserving it, you will be charged $100 each-way! That makes even the casinos near Red Rock seem like a pretty good deal.

Facebook fans of CAMP USA suggested flying on Southwest Airlines (free checked bags, in addition to free carry-on) as well as flying enough (or having the right credit card) to earn free first checked bags on major carriers. Here are a few other tips to flying with your mountain gear, and not paying an extra arm and a leg.

• Wear your climbing or ski boots onto the flight, in order to save room in your pack and not have to check an additional bag.
• Don't forget the "personal item" allowed by most airlines is in addition to a large carry-on. CAMP USA athlete Blake Herrington swears he has consistently used a fully-stuffed 35L pack, filled with two ropes, as his "personal item" even though it was probably 40lbs and larger than the carry-on bags of most folks.
• If you are worried about a weight penalty on a checked bag, move the small and heavy items into your carry-on, which wont get weighed. 
• Use a sharpie and write your name, email, phone number, and address clearly on the outside of any backpacks. When an airline inevitably loses your checked bag, you wont have to be worried about the flimsy paper tag having been torn off.
• Cinch up all the straps, tighten down the buckles, wrap the waist belt around the pack in reverse, and generally make your bag look and feel as small and compact as possible. If you've got a removeable lid to your pack, take it off in order to make your backpack meet the carry-on requirements.

And don't forget to read all the fine print when it comes to baggage fees, no matter which airline you choose. 

Pizem Climbs in Cuba!

For anyone on Colorado's western slope, here's your chance to see perma-psyched CAMP
USA athlete Rob Pizem share stories and photos of climbing in Cuba!

 

 

May 1, 3012 Colorado Mesa University

- 7:30PM - 

University Center Ballroom Room 235

 

Rob Pizem will be the speaker for the CMU - Wednesday Night Wandering.

Rock climbing in Cuba has been American climbers' forbidden fruit since the cold war.
Come and join Rob Pizem on May 1, 2013 as he shares whether Cuba and the climbing is worth the hype.
Learn what you need to know about travel, lodging and climbing in one of the United States closest and exotic neighbors.
The slide show is free, but donations will be collected for the Western Colorado Climbers Coalition.

 

Smith Rock Lessons

CAMP USA athlete Paige Claassen calls Oregon's Smith Rock State Park her favorite crag on earth. In between working (and sending) a classic 5.14 testpiece of this iconic area, Paige has developed a few do-not-miss routes, foods, and rest-day activities that are perfect for anyone visiting the area, no matter if you are working on 5.5 or 5.15.

When choosing a destination for your next climbing trip, the climbing can’t be the only determining factor. While climbing is important, the weather, food, people, and hangout are considerations that must weigh in as well. For this reason, Smith Rock is undoubtedly my favorite crag in the world.  At Smith, you get world class climbing without giving up any creature comforts AND the locals are welcoming. What could be better? I think nothing. So without further ado, here are 5 things you can’t miss at Smith.

 

1. Zebra Zion: This classic 3 pitch 5.10 is so fun you’ll have trouble finding a time when no one is on it. But it’s worth the early alarm to beat the crowds – the final 5.9 pitch is unbelievably fun, and leads to a great lookout over the entire park.

 

2. Trail running: The perfectly manicured trails of Smith Rock State Park provide endless opportunities for runners of all levels. Take the flat trail back to the Monkey for a leisurely jog or the steep route over Misery Ridge if you’re feeling ambitious.

 

3. Whipping off a slab: Whether you like it or not, it’s bound to happen. So embrace the fact that you are likely to fall while run out 15 feet above a bolt. Choose your belayer wisely and enjoy the ride!

 

4. Watch the locals run laps on your project: Churning in the Wake, Heinous Cling, Disposable Heroes. They’ll claim it’s easier for them because they’ve done it 300 times. Even so, it’s impressive.

 

5. Chocolate banana bread pudding at the Terrebonne Depot: You won’t be disappointed by any choice on the menu, but this delicacy is to die for. If you must, save it as a reward on send day. But in case you don’t send, swing by and grab a piece for the ride home. 

 

TRAUMA SKIS THE JOHN MUIR TRAIL

We just got an update from CAMP USA athlete Justin Lichter (AKA Trauma) who is in the midst of a 500-mile ski tour along the corridor of the John Muir Trail. He's at a resupply stop in Mammoth Lakes, and had this to say about the trip:

 

Pepper and I pushed hard yesterday to get to Mammoth Lakes, CA. We are getting organized and resupplying now for the next stretch. We skied into town under headlamps and moonlight in a ~30+ mile day. We camped a few miles south of Tuolomne Meadows in Yosemite the night before and had the most favorable conditions of the entire trip while heading over Donahue Pass and Island Pass. We even had some pretty good turns and corn snow on the descents. For the most part, the snow conditions have been less than optimal. Below 8000 feet elevation it is a mixed bag. We have had to bushwack through thick brush with our skis on our packs, make our way through talus fields with house sized boulders in our ski boots, and hike at least 15 miles of clear, snow-free trail in our ski boots. We should be higher most of the way through the next section, but we have still decided to add the burden of carrying a lightweight pair of shoes just in case. 

The first couple of days were chilly and snowy. The weather has now transitioned to full-blow sunshine and intense solar radiation. At times I notice that I am still squinting despite wearing sunglasses. The fords have been cold, with ice often flowing in the rivers, but none too overwhelming. The biggest thing is the lack of snow. At times we are forced to zig-zag around to stay on snow instead of being able to travel a straight line. All in all, the trip is going well. We have covered about 110 miles now and are excited to get into the Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park tomorrow. 

 

SKI MOUNTAINEERING - LIGHT, FAST, SAFE

CAMP is renowned for making the lightest piece of gear in nearly every category we sell. Ski Mountaineering, especially competitive ski mountaineering, is no exception. Please enjoy this new product article highlighting the many attributes and recent developments in the wonderful word of CAMP Skimo!

 Download the article, optimized for printing.

 

 

KING OF PAIN

The Boulder, CO newspaper, The Daily Camera, ran a story about the week of exponential climbing accomplished by CAMP USA athlete Rob Pizem and his partner Ben Rueck. 

 

From March 23-29, Pizem pulled off his so-called "spring break challenge," a crazy ultra-climb-a-thon he conjured in order to maximize endurance training on his vacation. After all, his time is tight. Did I mention that, in addition to his full-time teaching job, he's also a personal trainer, a husband and a father?

 

Check out the full story, written by fellow climber and columnist Chris Weidner.

 

Rob, day 2, on a .12d route he established in Unaweep Canyon

 

COSMIC Spyder Grind - April 20, 2013

Location: Arapahoe Basin Ski Resort, CO

MORE INFO

The 500-Mile Ski Tour

Justin Lichter is one of those quiet crushers and unheralded badass mountain athletes whose collection of feats will make your head spin if you sit back and truly try to comprehend them. He sent us a note the other day about a ski trip he is planning along with his dog, Pepper. Justin has been a CAMP athlete for more than 5 years and has relied on the light and fast gear for his huge mountain traverses on nearly every continent. Check out what he has in store now in the Sierras. 

Pepper and I are gearing up again! We are getting excited to get back outside after a weather roller-coaster winter. It started off great but the ups and downs started in January. There were always signs and anticipation for more snow, but not much panned out. We are mixing it up a little on this trip and will put our hip flexors to the test………and hopefully get some good turns to accompany all of the elevation gain. We are looking at putting our skis on, slinging a pack over our shoulders and skiing from just north of Lake Tahoe to Mt. Whitney, in the Sierra Nevada Mountains in California. Our goal is to ski the 400-500 miles roughly following the Pacific Crest Trail/John Muir Trail and Sierra High Route corridor (depending on snow conditions and weather). With the mixed bag of weather this winter we are hoping we'll be on snow the whole way because there’s nothing worse than hiking in ski boots and carrying your skis!

We are setting of on Monday, April 15. It looks like winter is going to return for the start of the trip, with temperatures in the teens (Fahrenheit) and 50 mile per hour winds. We are making some last minute adjustments with the weather forecast, and scrambling to get our gear ready today so we can head out the door tomorrow.