Paige made her third stop on her ambitious Lead Now Tour in Italy and spent a month getting to know the folks at CAMP and climbing in their backyard. Here Paige talks about why she is a CAMP athlete after getting to know the company up-close and personal. Watch in HD now ...
CAMP USA is proud to work with organizations such as the Access Fund, American AlpineGym Safe 'biners to sit atop some of the most popular routes. The old worn-out aluminum carabiners were looking pretty thin! We also raffled and donated a huge array of brand new CAMP sport climbing gear as part of our involvement at the annual Rifle Climbers' Festival.
There were about 300 people who registered and more in attendance. We cooked up some breakfast burritos and coffee one morning for participants of the event, though our coffee was sadly not the excellent Italian espresso which we pride ourselves on serving to guests at
We hope to see many friendly faces at the 2014 Rifle Climbers' Festival!
CAMP USA has been a long-time supporter of The Friends of Indian Creek, and the beautiful Indian Creek valley just south of Moab is one of the world's premiere rock climbing destinations. This Saturday, 9/24, the FOIC are organizing a volunteer event, coinciding with National Public Lands Day. We are providing awesome gear for the raffle, and hope to see you there for some slide shows, free gear, splitter climbing, and a day of giving back to environment.
The event HQ will be at the Donnelly Canyon parking lot (base of Supercrack) from 8AM to 9PM and you can suggest specific projects or find event details at the facebook event: 9/24 Indian Creek Volunteer Day.
Duane Raleigh and Jeff Jackson from Rock & Ice have been dropping bolts into sketchy slabs linked by thin ice sheets near Redstone. The result is a style of mixed climbing that delivers the best of all worlds -- thin ice for spice, slabs that feel like 5.12, and overhanging power moves. They are fleeting routes and I got lucky enough to get in on them early last year. With the lack of snow in CO, it looks like nothing will form this winter on this wall, but keep an eye on conditions for future seasons because these are really some of the most unique mixed climbs in the West!
Note: I mention I hate a ledge in the video ... that's because the week before this video was shot, I took a 35 footer while manteling over the ice lip. My tool popped in the lousy dry ice as I was preparing to clip and I smoked the slab sideways about 15 feet off the deck. Once I knew I was fine, I was pissed and wanted redemption.
HYPERLIGHT. TOTALLY INNOVATIVE. The XLC 390 has reigned supreme as the lightest 12 point crampons in the world for almost 10 years. So it is no surprise that when we set out to create the new lightest crampons in the world, it would be our own record we would have to beat. What it took was the optimal combination of design, materials and unique innovations like a Dyneema® linking strap and the first Tech-Style (think Dynafit®) bindings on crampons ever. The Race 290 is the new lightweight leader in mountaineering certified crampons--compare with our own XLC 390's and these babies shave a full 25%! 10 minimalist points (including front points) combine with an innovative Dyneema® linking strap (think packability) and all aluminum alloy main body construction for a true step forward in crampon design ... PRODUCT SPECS
Registration is now open for the sixth annual Heathen Challenge. Please fax or scan and email the attached form.
Race date for the 2012 Heathen Challenge is Saturday, January 14th. More backcountry this year; we'll be skinning more outside of the "ski area" in the permit area and using the ski area runs for descents.
- Friday pm registration is at the Hotel Colorado in Glenwood Springs from 5-7pm.
- 8 AM START, late registration, number pick-up in Sunlight Mt. base lodge from 6:30 am.
The RECREATION course will be approximately 2,500 ft., the RACE COURSE 4,000+.
Two hours on day two brought the only stint of bad weather. Driving sleet blinded us from the East as we scrambled over high granite slabs, rounding pristine lakes and crossing primitive streams to the top of Muir Pass. I am wearing my only layers and they are covered in a coat of sticky white crud. Justin and Blake are setting the pace, their sights set on the hut situated on the summit of Muir Pass. We hit the hut in three waves and take the place over. It is cold, but not unbearably so. Jed starts wrapping himself in the mega-mid he is carrying as the sole shelter for three of the hikers. Chris gets up to help him and Blake is shouting suggestions from a bench on the side. They are functioning as a team with a mission now, trying to create a streamlined hiking tarp from a piece of gear many alpine climbers already own. Multi-purposing is one of the keys to going light and fast. But this one is a failure. He looks like a raddish on steroids dressed in a body diaper. Humor is another key to success with minimalist adventures.
The Evolution Loop tracks from North Lake to South Lake through the Evolution basin up and over three 12,000 foot passes (Piute, Muir, Bishop). It is 55 miles and surprisingly run-able. We had the chance to take an experimental test run of the route with Sierra Mountain Guides a few weeks ago. Along the way, we are testing lightweight gear, learning about hyperlight strategies and tactics from frontrunners in this area of study like Justin (Trauma) Lichter and Howie Schwartz, and we are blessed with a stunning overview of the high Sierra. I am ashamed to say that before this, I had never seen the Sierras more than the highway drive from Reno to wine country. So much climbing, so little time. I am delighted to report that the range blew my mind as expected. The entire range from the Palisades to the peaks over Piute rises from the most solid layer of granite bedrock I have ever seen. This makes the terrain feel flat and continuous, even at elevations of 12,000 plus where 14ers loom overhead. It is strikingly different from the mini-ranges that form the Rockies where the elevation tends to drop sharply between each cirque.
There are also fewer roads. We are on a loop that is part of the longest continual stretch of roadless country in the nation. As such, we are self-supported for most of the trip. This is fine. Our packs average around 15 pounds for days two and three. We are breezing past hikers with huge loads covering the same ground in six days. But even this is not the best way to run this route. This is an exploratory outing and we are minimizing some costs and taking time to put some new gear to the test. We have the luxury of experiencing the mule-supported camp on the first night, then we are on our own. The trip from Sierra Mountain Guides will feature mule-supported camps (with chefs) on both nights. So sick!
For us, day one was 25 miles of mountain running. We wore shorts and our gear is minimalist with only a water bottle, snacks and lightweight wind gear. The next two days we covered the remaining 30 miles bagging high peaks along the way and stopping frequently for mini product review sessions with the seasoned team. Water was straight from the source with no treatment the entire way and the wilderness left its mark on us with bronzed skin, clean air, and a genuine feeling of detachment from the rest of the world. Content and happy, we wonder if it should ever end. But like any trip, this one has a beginning and an end. We are happy they are both (along with everything in between) beautiful, and rugged, and entrancing … the way our wilderness was meant to be.
Special thanks to the photographers:
1. Blake Herrington
2. Matt Irons
3. Matt Irons
4. Dave McCoy
5. Dave McCoy
6. Howie Schwartz
7. Blake Herrington
CAMP has been a proud sponsor of the Rifle Clean-Up events for several years now having donated hundreds of steel biners and draws to the cause of keeping sharp biners off heavily traveled routes. This year, we are donating even more fixed steel draws and we hope to see them lining the canyon walls on at least the first and crux bolts of every high traffic route ... because taking a whip and watching your rope sheath explode in your face from a sharp biner is downright scary.
This year will also be a ton of fun under the new guidance of Andrew Bisharat and Jen Vennon who have devised a sweet competition (details HERE) and funfest to go with the standard clean-up efforts. Hope to see you there!
Our athlete Fabrizio Zangrilli is enjoying a little downtime in Kathmandu during his 9 month guiding and climbing season in the Himalaya. We are hoping to help him in identifying an historic piton he pulled from the Basque Route a few weeks ago. Here's the note from Fabrizio and an image:
"I started going through the photos from this trip and will have some nice ones to share soon, however I came across this photo, I found this piton on the Basque Route (often called the Cesen) and am trying to figure out its origin. Might be hard, as obviously homemade, but would be good to do. I put a picture of it on my Facebook athlete page and an offer for a set of tricams or pronuts to the person who can help figure out how it got there. Any ideas of how I can start to figure it out would be appreciated."